The island of Key Largo is an exposed, fossilized remnant of a coral reef formed during a period of higher sea level and then uncovered and eroded during a subsequent ice age. The highest elevation is a slight ridge forming the spine of the island, which rises to about 15 feet (4.6 m).

The island’s substrate is called Key Largo limestone; in many places, fossilized corals and smooth, eroded limestone “caprock” are visible at the surface. Solution holes, which are pockets dissolved in the limestone by acidic rainwater, form shallow depressions in the land. The natural shoreline of the island is generally rocky. A slippery, gray, limestone-based clay called “marl” is the shoreline and near-shore soil. No natural sand beaches occur on the island. Inland, decomposed vegetation forms a rich, acidic humus soil up to about 6 in (15 cm) thick, topped by “leaf litter”. The soil supports a diverse flora of herbaceous plants, woody shrubs. and hardwood trees.

Confronting the dirty details of the place where one resides is the start of a healthy relationship. It begins the construction of the fullest image complete with those rich colours and nuances. It is an act precedent to framing the whole. Perhaps I shouldn’t label coral or limestone a “dirty detail” but it is certainly an awakening from the classic resort sales pitch of fine white sandy beaches and crashing ocean waves.  By contrast the sea surrounding Key Largo is a plateau of tepid, glimmering green water. The buoyancy is predictably remarkable. After floating in the sea I relish experiencing the drying salt upon my body. I am not one to shower immediately thereafter to remove the brine.

Adjusting to these geographic elements requires a degree of intellectualism or artistic persuasion, akin to addressing someone with an obvious but not entirely unattractive physical anomaly.  Unique perhaps captures the theme more exactly. And there are limitations arising from the recognition as naturally there should be with any singular event. Once again the surrounding geological traits are like the defining personality of one’s host, necessitating accommodation for the fullest benefit.  That is, something other than rejection or outright ignorance. Maybe adaptation is what I’m after; or, forbearance at the outside.

I have always harboured the belief that Key Largo is not a long-term destination for most people. From my succinct on-line review of Key Largo’s retail attractions it is evident that an absorption of 4 -5 days would normally be sufficient for most tourists whether from nearby urban Miami or from Canada, England or Germany. This is by no means a disqualification of the place; rather it merely points to immediacy of the traditional diversions for the tourist (which might usefully be summarized as snorkelling and deep sea diving).

Key Largo is the first of the fabulous Florida Keys and is the self-proclaimed Dive Capital of the World.

It is home to the world’s largest artificial reef, the 510-foot USS Spiegel Grove, the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park and the African Queen.

Everglades National Park is just a short trip away from Key Largo.

Diving, snorkeling and glass-bottom boating in the clear waters of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary are fantastic experiences.

Watersport activities in Key Largo are plentiful, including fishing, kayaking and swimming with the dolphins.

Or, just relax with a tropical beverage and watch the beautiful sunsets.

As long-term interlopers (of admittedly unique composition) we have no intention of doing any of the above. Not because we disparage tourism (although I have to admit we generally do; and frankly who doesn’t  – when did you last entertain a tourist?) but more because we’ll likely accomplish the essence of those experiences by our own cultivation and prosecution over the six months we are here. Insinuating a place takes time; and, it is our experience that it is best propelled by the natural excitement of discovery and commonality, not show tickets.

Uniting with this investiture of deprivation is the admission of domestic modification. The rules of the household derive from its unique characteristics. A salient feature for us is the unique sufficiency of our immediate environment.  In a word we have everything we could possibly want at our fingertips. I am not suggesting that it would satisfy everyone but that is beside the point within this particular narrative. My object is not to retail the resort but rather to detail the resort; and if it should happen to meet your objectives, dear Reader, then so much the better. For the moment however I confine my interest to digesting what is at hand and dredging up its fullest nutrition. This incremental application has once again today manifest itself. We are slowly adjusting to paradise!